2023/09: Heading to Zanskar — Project Report by Trudi Vetsch

In ear­ly Sep­tem­ber 2023, I tra­ve­led to Lad­akh for two weeks with the goal of eva­lua­ting the inclu­si­on of a new regi­on in the adult edu­ca­ti­on pro­ject. Nawang Pal­den, the new pro­ject coor­di­na­tor, had alre­a­dy visi­ted seve­ral vil­la­ges in spring 2023 and inter­view­ed local resi­dents about their needs and inte­rest in adult edu­ca­ti­on. Based on the posi­ti­ve feed­back and strong inte­rest, the Zans­kar regi­on beca­me the main desti­na­ti­on of this year’s trip.

Phuk­tal Monas­tery is built on a cliff ledge around a natu­ral cave.

Zans­kar – A For­mer Bud­dhist Kingdom

The remo­te high-alti­tu­de val­ley lies 320 km west of Leh, the geo­gra­phi­cal cen­ter of Lad­akh, at an avera­ge ele­va­ti­on of 3,500 meters abo­ve sea level. The regi­on covers an area of appro­xi­m­ate­ly 7,000 km². The popu­la­ti­on is esti­ma­ted at around 20,000 inha­bi­tants. Padum, with near­ly 2,000 resi­dents, is the lar­gest sett­le­ment in the val­ley and ser­ves as the admi­nis­tra­ti­ve cen­ter of the region.

The Zans­kar Val­ley, bor­de­ring the Sen­ge La regi­on, is acces­si­ble via the new­ly deve­lo­ped “Wanla–Lingshed–Padum” road con­nec­tion, as well as through a con­nec­ting rou­te from Kar­gil. During the win­ter months, the popu­la­ti­on is cut off from the out­side world and can only be rea­ched via the “Chad­dar Trek”—a rou­te along the fro­zen river of the same name.

A spec­ta­cu­lar gor­ge con­nects Zans­kar with the Sen­ge La region.

Start­ing the Edu­ca­ti­on Pro­ject in the Lungnak Valley

One of the defi­ned goals of the EAL asso­cia­ti­on is to expand access to adult edu­ca­ti­on in addi­tio­nal regi­ons of Lad­akh. In the win­ter of 2023, a fri­end put us in cont­act with Nawang Pal­den. He lives with his fami­ly in Sheela, a moun­tain far­ming vil­la­ge in the Lungnak Val­ley, Zans­kar. After seve­ral pho­ne calls with him, the EAL board deci­ded to appoint him as the new pro­ject coor­di­na­tor for adult education.

Nawang Pal­den, the pro­ject mana­ger on site.

We are plea­sed to have gai­ned a com­pe­tent and expe­ri­en­ced part­ner in Nawang Pal­den, who­se many years of expe­ri­ence as a secre­ta­ry of an NGO make an important con­tri­bu­ti­on to the fur­ther deve­lo­p­ment of the adult edu­ca­ti­on pro­ject in Zanskar.

The Lungnak Val­ley is an 80 km long side val­ley of Zans­kar and runs sou­the­ast from Padum towards Dar­cha. The area includes 18 vil­la­ges, with around 1,400 peo­p­le living the­re. Thanks to Nawang Palden’s pre­pa­ra­to­ry work, the vil­la­ge com­mu­ni­ties were alre­a­dy infor­med about the EAL asso­cia­ti­on. During per­so­nal mee­tings with the vil­la­gers, EAL and its phi­lo­so­phy and goals were pre­sen­ted again.

In Sep­tem­ber 2023, the com­mu­ni­ties of Sheela, Pip­cha, Mune, Raru, and Anmu were included in the adult edu­ca­ti­on pro­ject. In the coming win­ter, 96 women from the­se vil­la­ges will par­ti­ci­pa­te in the les­sons. The EAL board has hired nine tea­chers for this purpose.

The future stu­dents all share one com­mon wish: to be able to read and wri­te the Lad­akhi lan­guage Bho­ti. Bho­ti is writ­ten using the Tibe­tan script. The writ­ten lan­guage Bho­ti is clo­se to clas­si­cal Tibetan.

Orga­niza­tio­nal Information

In Lad­akh, it is tra­di­tio­nal for a mar­ried cou­ple to move into the groom’s paren­tal home. Some women have com­ple­ted hig­her edu­ca­ti­on, but due to the remo­te loca­ti­on of the vil­la­ges, it is almost impos­si­ble for them to find work near­by. Nawang and I have deci­ded to give prio­ri­ty to women with a degree when recrui­ting tea­chers. Five women imme­dia­te­ly agreed to take on tea­ching roles when asked.

The win­ter les­sons will start on Janu­ary 1, 2024, and last for two months. Clas­ses will be held six days a week, with two to three hours of ins­truc­tion per day. EAL will pro­vi­de each new­ly enrol­led par­ti­ci­pant with a note­book and pen. For the tea­chers, in addi­ti­on to the employ­ment con­tract, a cur­ri­cu­lum and a duties manu­al have been deve­lo­ped. By enrol­ling in the win­ter les­sons, par­ti­ci­pan­ts com­mit to atten­ding the enti­re course.

Start of Win­ter Les­sons 2023/2024 for Adults in Five Villages

Anmu

Anmu during the har­ve­st season.

Anmu is loca­ted on a hill sur­roun­ded by bar­ley fields in the midd­le part of the Lungnak Val­ley. Due to the village’s remo­ten­ess, the 50 resi­dents live lar­ge­ly inde­pendent­ly. The child­ren attend the public school in the vil­la­ge. Stanz­in Sam­pel, a govern­ment-appoin­ted tea­cher, tea­ches the school­child­ren during the sum­mer months. We were able to recruit Stanz­in as a tea­cher for the edu­ca­ti­on pro­ject. Seven women from the vil­la­ge are par­ti­ci­pa­ting in the win­ter lessons.

Mee­ting with the vil­la­ge women and tea­cher Stanz­in Sampel.

Sheela

After the har­ve­st, the bar­ley is spread out in squa­re-shaped pat­terns to dry.

Sheela is loca­ted on the val­ley flo­or at the begin­ning of the Lungnak Val­ley. The vil­la­ge is lush and green, stan­ding in stark con­trast to the bar­ren land­scape of Zans­kar. Twen­ty-seven fami­lies live in the vil­la­ge, each with an avera­ge of three child­ren. Fif­teen women are par­ti­ci­pa­ting in the win­ter lessons.

Raru

Mee­ting point in the village.

The moun­tain vil­la­ge of Raru is the lar­gest com­mu­ni­ty in the Lungnak Val­ley, situa­ted at 3,800 meters abo­ve sea level. A clus­ter of hou­ses forms the vil­la­ge cen­ter around the pray­er wheel. Appro­xi­m­ate­ly 180 peo­p­le live in Raru. Three fema­le tea­chers ins­truct the 34 participants.

Pip­cha

The vil­la­ge of Pip­cha is built ter­ra­ced into the steep hills­i­de. It con­sists of 24 hou­ses with around 145 inha­bi­tants. For the les­sons, we were able to recruit a monk from the neigh­bor­ing Bar­dan Monas­tery as a tea­cher. Addi­tio­nal­ly, a for­mer govern­ment tea­cher has vol­un­tee­red. Twen­ty women are par­ti­ci­pa­ting in the classes.

Visit to the vil­la­ge com­mu­ni­ty in Pipcha.

Mune

Gathe­ring with the par­ti­ci­pan­ts in Mune.

The vil­la­ge of Mune com­pri­ses 22 house­holds and has a popu­la­ti­on of 120. Twen­ty par­ti­ci­pan­ts attend the classes.

Sen­ge La Region

Win­ter Les­sons 2023/2024 for Adults in the Vil­la­ges of the Sen­ge La Region

On the return jour­ney to Leh, I stay­ed for three days in the vil­la­ges of Sen­ge La. In con­ver­sa­ti­ons with the par­ti­ci­pan­ts, the­re was a clear desi­re to attend the win­ter les­sons for ano­ther year. Six nuns from the Lings­hed Monas­tery con­ti­nue to ser­ve as tea­chers. The tea­ching posi­ti­ons in Ski­um­pa­ta and Yulch­ung are curr­ent­ly vacant. Around 78 women bene­fit from this pro­gram in the Sen­ge La region.

In Ski­um­pa­ta, clas­ses are held out­doors when the wea­ther is sunny.

Win­ter Les­sons for Stu­dents in the Sen­ge La Region

During the win­ter sea­son, public schools are clo­sed for three months, from Decem­ber 2023 to Febru­ary 2024. The win­ter les­sons are orga­ni­zed to streng­then and impro­ve aca­de­mic pro­gress and to help stu­dents advan­ce in their studies.

Addi­tio­nal­ly, the sta­te edu­ca­ti­on minis­try has intro­du­ced Hin­di as a com­pul­so­ry sub­ject from gra­des 1 to 8. To advan­ce to gra­de 9, stu­dents must pass exams in Hin­di. Only tho­se who suc­cessful­ly pass the­se exams are admit­ted to gra­de 9.

For win­ter 2023/2024, the pro­ject coor­di­na­tor Sonam Dor­je is orga­ni­zing the addi­tio­nal lear­ning pro­gram in seven villages.

The cur­ri­cu­lum includes Hin­di as well as sub­jects like Mathe­ma­tics, Eng­lish, Bothi, and Sci­ence. A total of 145 young peo­p­le bene­fit from this sup­port. Twen­ty-four tea­chers are ins­truc­ting in total.

The EAL asso­cia­ti­on pro­vi­des finan­cial sup­port for six teachers.

Hockey Camp at 4,000 meters abo­ve sea level

Sin­ce 2019, the EAL asso­cia­ti­on has sup­port­ed sports acti­vi­ties for child­ren and stu­dents. Through the fund­rai­sing cam­paign “Hockey Equip­ment for Lad­akh,” EAL dona­ted ice skates, hel­mets, gloves, as well as sticks and pads to the local pro­ject coor­di­na­tor Lob­zang Rin­chen. Last win­ter, Schuh- und Sport­haus Joos from Schiers dona­ted 20 kg of hockey equip­ment to EAL.

A heart­felt thank you to Schuh- und Sport­haus Joos Schiers!

The SINGELA PARTNERS WELFARE ASSOCIATION, based in Leh, was foun­ded on Janu­ary 5, 2020. The asso­cia­ti­on aims to pro­mo­te and spread ice hockey among youth in remo­te areas.

In the win­ter sea­son 2022/2023, Lob­zang Tsu­l­tim, pre­si­dent of SINGELA PARTNERS, orga­ni­zed the first hockey camp for child­ren in coope­ra­ti­on with Lob­zang Rinchen.

Group pho­to of the child­ren from Neyraks.

Report from Pre­si­dent Lob­zang Tsultim:

We had eight par­ti­ci­pan­ts in the vil­la­ge of Ney­raks. For all the­se child­ren, it was their first expe­ri­ence with ice ska­ting. Both the child­ren and their par­ents were very hap­py about the oppor­tu­ni­ty to dis­co­ver a new sport. The camp was con­duc­ted by the orga­ni­zers for seven days. After­ward, we pro­vi­ded the child­ren with ice skates and other equip­ment so they could prac­ti­ce on their own for a month.